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Alexander Nevsky Cathedral: The city’s symbolic landmark and main religious building, the Cathedral is also the 2nd largest Orthodox Church in the world, accommodating congregations of 10,000. Only the St. Savvas Cathedral in Belgrade is larger. The church, with its golden dome, was constructed in the early 20th century to commemorate the 200,000 Russian, Ukrainian, Belarusian and Bulgarian soldiers who fell in the Russo-Turkish War of 1877-1878. To the left of the sanctuary lie the remains of Alexander Nevsky, entrusted to the safekeeping of the cathedral by the Russian Orthodox Church. You should make a point of visiting the Crypt, which houses the Icon Museum, one of the largest collection of icons in the world and featuring works from the 9th to the 19th century. The forecourt in front of the cathedral has a number of stands selling souvenirs, antiques and curios.

Aghia Sophia: The Byzantine church – from which the city took its name in the 14th century – is the oldest Orthodox church in the country, constructed in the 5th century next to the Church of Alexander Nevsky. It is an important example of early Byzantine architecture, a three-aisled basilica with a dome, adopting the relatively austere aesthetic of the early Christian churches with the red bricks and mosaics. In the grounds of the church you will see the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, a monument commemorating all those who have fought for Bulgaria. At the rear of the church there are stalls selling hand-made lace and other traditional fabrics. Next to the church is the grave of the popular Bulgarian writer Ivan Vazov, who died in 1921.

The Boyana Church: The church is located at the feet of Mt. Vitosha, is 900 years old and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979. It owes its fame to the unique frescoes it contains, dating from 1259. Address: 1-3 Boyansko Ezero, http://www.boyanachurch.org

Rotunda of Saint George: This is the oldest Orthodox church in eastern Europe (4th century AD) and lies concealed between the forecourt of the Presidential Residence and the Sheraton Hotel. Restoration work uncovered mediaeval frescoes dating from the early 10th century, covered with plaster by the Ottomans.

Archaeology Institute: One of the most important museums and archaeological research centres in south-eastern Europe, the Sofia Archaeology Institute is housed in what was once the largest and oldest mosque in the city, the Buyuk Tzami, built in around 1474 by Mohammed II. The huge collection includes finds from the Palaeolithic era and the Bronze and Iron Ages, sculptures and golden vessels from the classical era of Bulgarian antiquity, inscriptions and statues from Roman times, works of mediaeval art, and much, much more. Address: Saborna 2, tel.: +35929882406 , www. naim.bg

National Gallery of Foreign Art: A museum with a difference, dedicated to art and human creativity all over the world. The Museum of Foreign Art has an impressive collection of 10,000 items, including Christian sculpture from India, a collection of works from the inter-war Poetic Realism movement, 20th century works, African and Buddhist art and outstanding paintings by great western European artists. Address: 19 February 1, Alexander Nevsky Square, tel.: +359 9884922, http://www.foreignartmuseum.bg/

Sofia Art Museum: Those wishing to understand the essence of Bulgarian art should visit this fine museum with its 3,500 paintings, 800 sculptures and 2,800 drawings and engravings. Of particular interest is the new section, dedicated to Contemporary Art and Photography. Address: Gen. Gurko 1, tel.: +359 2 9872181, www.sghg.bg/

National and Historical Museum: The museum covers the whole period, from prehistory to the present day, with finds from ancient times and the Middle Ages, superb gold items from antiquity and traditional costumes, as well as documents, tools and utensils, photographs and decorative items – all telling the fascinating tale of Bulgarian history. Address: Nevazisimost Square, tel, :+359 2988 2406, www.historymuseum.org

The Amphitheatre: We’re sure you have never expected to enjoy a drink or a coffee surrounded by ancient remains! But in the lobby of the Arena di Serdica Hotel, amidst the armchairs, low tables and reception desk, there is an amazing archaeological site! The discovery was made in 2004 during repair work to the hotel, when archaeologists uncovered part of a Roman arena dating from the 3rd century, the magnificent Amphitheatrum Serdicense, 60 metres long and 45 metres wide – only 10m smaller than the Coliseum in Rome. The building was started under Diocletian and completed under Constantine I, and is regarded as one of the most important Roman finds in the Balkans. Only this portion of the structure is visible; the rest is still buried under the buildings of the modern city. The hotel allows visitors in free to admire the site, every day from 09.00 to 19.00. Address: Budapeshta Street, behind the Palace, close to Alexander Nevsky Square

Mt. Vitosha: The suburbs are just ten minutes away from the city centre, and from there you can take the Knyazhevo or Simeonovo cable cars almost to the top of the mountain (about 20 minutes). In Vitosha Park, the oldest national park in the Balkans, you can walk along picturesque paths or enjoy skiing in winter. You should also see the beautiful Boyana waterfall, close to the church of the same name.

There are a number of markets dispersed around the city’s historic centre, where you can find antiques, paintings, icons, jewellery, souvenirs and religious embroidery. You can find markets selling contemporary products and designer labels at Vitosha Blvd., but be warned – this is one of the most expensive shopping streets in the world! Sofia is a city where art, painting and objets d’art are taken very seriously. You should take a stroll along peaceful Tsar Samuil Street, where the many fine galleries give the impression of a museum broken up into many small parts. You will be able to admire fine aquarelles, sculptures, art photographs, ceramics and old toys and games, at a wide range of prices. There is also a Centre of Folk Arts and Crafts, where you will find all sorts of craft items, including hand-made blankets, ceramic ware and silver jewellery, as well as books and CDs with a Balkan flavour. (Address: Pl. Battenberg, 10:00-18:00). For book lovers and collectors, the Balkans’ largest open-air book market is held in Petko R. Slaveykov Square.

Bulgarian cuisine features some superb cheeses, mushrooms, white cheese from dairy milk and excellent local red wine. You should try the food at the mehani, the traditional little restaurants which stay open till very late. A traditional recipe you should make a note of and order is the shkembe chorba, a type of soup made of milk, flour, paprika, garlic and vinegar. Most restaurants and bars in Sofia are near the centre, and in the evenings you will find plenty of impressive clubs and little bars in which to enjoy a relaxing drink.

• Film Festival: Every year in March Sofia plays host to one of the world’s major film festivals, featuring both international productions and leading examples of Bulgarian film-making.
• Music Weeks: If you’re in Sofia at the end of May you’ll be able to enjoy the Music Weeks, a festival of classical music which brings to the city leading international soloists and orchestras. For those interested in jazz, there is the international Jazz Festival every November.
• Theatre and Dance: Although you’re likely to have a problem with the language, it’s still worth while visiting the beautiful Ivan Vazov Theatre, the Bulgarian National Theatre. The building is one of the city’s landmarks, designed by the famous Austrian architects Helmer and Fellner. For a cultural experience that transcends the boundaries of language you could sample an opera or ballet production at the Sofia Opera and Ballet. This is where many famous opera singers have begun their career – including Gena Dimitrova, Anna Tomova Sintova and Nikola Yuselev. Address: 30 Dondulkov St., tel.: +35929877011, http://www.operasofia.bg

Transport from the airport

Aegean Airlines flights land at Sofia International Airport, the largest in Bulgaria. This new airport has a good shopping centre with duty free stores, banks, a bureau de change and post office, as well as free WiFi. The airport is just 5km from the city centre, and we recommend you use a taxi, given that the fares are very reasonable. Make sure you take one of the properly licensed cabs, which bear the sign ‘OK’. If you prefer to use public transport, the main connection from airport to city is by bus, nos. 84 and 384.