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Cathedral of St. John: You would never guess from the austere façade of the 16th century cathedral that its interior boasts such a wealth of Maltese Baroque decoration. The most striking feature is the white cross on a red background, the emblem of the Knights of St. John. Also striking is the dazzling marble floor with mosaics marking the resting places of 375 Knights, and the fresco by Mattia Preti of St. John in Paradise, in the sanctuary. The Cathedral museum contains two masterpieces by Caravaggio, the Beheading of John the Baptist and St. Jerome. Address: Triq San Gwann, 00356 21220536, http://stjohnscocathedral.com

Palace of the Grand Master: Built in 1571, this was the seat of the Grand Master of the Order of Knights. The refectory is still redolent of the era of chivalry, with the long, narrow table and exotic designs of elephants and birds of paradise on the tapestries. Make sure you take a stroll along the long passage with the knights’ suits of armour. There is also a fine exhibition of military costumes and weapons from various different armies and different periods. The Palace is nowadays the home of the Maltese Parliament, and the Residence of the President. Address: Pjazza San Ġorġ

Fort Saint Elmo: The fort was constructed in the 16th century by the Knights of Saint John to guard the entrance of Valletta harbour; it took its name from the patron saint of sailors. It was the scene of a number of hard-fought battles and sieges. You can still see the hatches which led down to the underground storage areas. The fort is now home to the Maltese Police Training School. Address: On the Sciberras Peninsula, between the Grand Harbour and Marsamxett Harbour.

Barakka Gardens: Take a stroll through the beautiful public gardens of Valletta, once a retreat for the Knights, with their beautiful parterres and impressive arched pathways. The best view in Malta is to be had from the terrace where the cannons stand, and where a shot is still fired each day at noon. Address: Triq Sant' Orsla

National Archaeological Museum: This fascinating museum is located in a Baroque palace, the Auberge de Provence, once home to the Knights from the Provence region of France. The museum illuminates the prehistory of Malta, from the Neolithic Era to the Phoenicians, mainly through exhibits showing the daily lives of the early islanders. Of particular interest are the famous ‘Fat Ladies’, well-rounded figurines from the archaeological site at Hagar Qim, probably intended to portray a prehistoric fertility goddess, and the Aphrodite of Malta, from the same site. Another highlight is the ‘Sleeping Lady’, from the subterranean necropolis of Hypogeum, who has been lost in her slumbers since 3000 BC. Address: Auberge de Provence, Republic Street, 00356 21221623

Maltese National Museum of Fine Arts: You should definitely visit this small but well-stocked museum in the Baroque palazzo of Admiralty House, with its impressive stairway. In the galleries of the palace – where guests have included Lord Mountbatten, Winston Churchill, George V and Queen Elizabeth II – you will find works by Italian and Maltese painters of the 15th – 20th centuries, as well as a collection of furniture and silverware. Of particular note is the major collection of works by the Italian Baroque painter Mattia Preti, and there is also a superb aquarelle by Turner depicting the Grand Harbour. Address: South Street, 00356 21225769

Mdina: A visit to nearby Mdina – also known as the ‘City of Silence’ because its narrow streets have such a peaceful atmosphere, despite the hordes of visitors – is another journey back in time. Pass through the gateway of this mediaeval fortress community and wander through the labyrinth of the former capital of Malta. Admire the impressive facades of the Baroque buildings, with the many Arab influences, and dwell on the decorative details, like the carved doorknockers on the street doors. And climb up to the big bastion to enjoy a panoramic view of this mysterious city.

The Tarxien Temples: Valletta has its own Stonehenge, the archaeological site of Tarxien. Four enigmatic, megalithic structures, with elaborate decorative schemes, dating from 3600-2500 BC, and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Address: Triq It Tempii Neolitici, 00356 21695578

The main shopping streets in Valletta are the pedestrian-only Republic Street, and Merchants Street, where you can find British labels and brands, shops selling Italian-style leather shoes, jewellery stores and boutiques selling clothes and accessories. In the souvenir shops in the old city you should look for decorative items in blown glass, made at local workshops, as well as lace and embroidery, copies of the famous doorknockers which adorn the courtyard doors of Medina, engravings and old maps, miniature figures of Knights, helmets and armour, as well as tiny replicas of the old highly- coloured buses, something of a cult with tourists, which can still be seen on the streets of the city. Just outside the city walls you will find an open-air market at St. James Ditch, held every Sunday, where you can rummage for hidden treasures and antiques, or just enjoy the local colour.

The traditional cuisine of Valletta is a kaleidoscopic reflection of all the many peoples who have settled on the island at various times. The keynote is Mediterranean, with definite influences from neighbouring Sicily. The seasonal dishes of the local cuisine are dominated by fresh fish and seafood, the fish soup known as aljotta, cooked with lots of garlic, and the fish pie known as lampuki. You should also try the Maltese rabbit stew, the local version of vegetable ratatouille, known as kapunata, the rich minestra soup, and the pastizzi – pastries filled with ricotta cheese. For dessert, try the nougat, the excellent ice cream, the Sicilian-style cannoli, or the fried mqaret stuffed with dates. The local vineyards produce excellent wines to accompany your meal, and there is good local beer as well. You can dine out under the stars on the terrace of a Baroque palace in the old city, or you might prefer one of the busy restaurants in the harbour, or one of the wine bars on South Street, or the renovated warehouses on the waterfront, where you will find most of the ethnic and Italian restaurants. At nightfall the temperature rises at the bars and dance clubs of Paceville, on the shore near St. Julian’s, where famous DJs from all over the world make guest appearances to the delight of the regulars. Try and catch an evening of traditional Maltese ghana music, a distinctive sound with Arab and Sicilian influences.

Phantasmagorical events with a mediaeval atmosphere and local colour, both in Valletta and on the outskirts of the city.

• In Guardia: An impressive re-enactment of the parades and drills held in the 16th century by the Knights of the Order of St. John in Saint Elmo Fort. Fifty-five actors, dressed in period military costume, take part in this retro happening, which is organized on several Sundays during the year.
• White Night: One night every October, all over the city, in the streets and squares of Valletta, museums and galleries stay open late, and restaurants and cafes simply forget to close!
• International Fireworks Festival: Night turns to day, and the sky over the Grand Harbour is lit up by a firework super-spectacle. Every year at the end of April firework artists from all over the world vie to put on the most impressive show.
• Religious feasts: If there’s a feast day in one of the towns or villages of Malta during your stay, you really shouldn’t miss the unique atmosphere. The air is rich with the fragrance of pastizzi, traditional cheese pies. The streets are illuminated with strings of lanterns, and fireworks light up the sky. The local bands play joyful melodies from Wagner and Verdi to accompany the litany, and the congregations welcome the effigy of the saint with cheering and confetti.

Transport from the airport

Aegean Airlines flights land at Malta International Airport, which is just 5km from Valletta. This is a relatively small airport, but very traveller-friendly, with good duty free shops, restaurants, cafes, banks, bureaus de change and free WiFi. There are four public buses plying between the airport and the town, or you can book a place online on of the airport’s own buses to take you direct to your hotel. There are taxis, too, with fixed fares to each part of the island.