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Argostoli: Kefalonia is very proud of its settlements, which number as many as there are days in the year: 365! The capital town of Argostoli and the second-largest town of Lixouri are both important centres of tourism on the island. In Argostoli, don't miss walking along Rizospaston Avenue ("Avenue of the Radicals"), adorned with palm trees and lovely buildings, or along the waterfront, which is ideal for a romantic stroll. Fanari, the white lighthouse at the end of Argostoli Bay, is also impressive. Nearby, you can see the interesting geological phenomenon of Katavothres. These are cracks near the sea where the water enters and flows across almost the entire island through a network of underground tunnels.

Fiskardo: Built in a tiny bay in the northern part of the island, it is undoubtedly the most picturesque settlement in Kefalonia and a popular destination among international jet-setters. Fiskardo is one of the few villages on the island that have kept the traditional architectural style of the buildings intact. The marina there is always filled with luxury yachts, while the restaurants are famous and frequented even by Hollywood stars.

Assos: The charming settlement is built around a peninsula, surrounded by rich vegetation, graceful Ionian architecture and turquoise waters. The famous Assos Castle, an important example of Venetian fortification, features an impressive domed entrance that arches over the settlement. Don't miss a chance to visit and see the walls, the residence of the Venetian governor and the church of Agios Markos. Near Assos is Myrtos beach, one of the loveliest beaches in the world.

Kourkoumelata: A village well worth a visit, 10 km outside Argostoli and featuring excellent layout, majestic homes and gardens full of colourful flowers in bloom. Kourkoumelata is a must on your tour of Kefalonia, as many believe it is the most beautiful village on the island.

Archaeological Museum: Located in Argostoli, the museum houses findings from the Palaeolithic period through the Late Roman period. Address: G. Vergoti, Tel.: +30 26710 28300

Folklore Museum: You will learn much about the rich cultural history of the island by viewing the extensive collection of photographs, objects, costumes and other artefacts at the Corgialenion Historical and Folk Art Museum in Argostoli. Address: 2 Ilia Zervou Str., Tel.: +30 26710 28835

Cave of Melissani: At Karavomylos, about 2 km from the port of Sami, you will find an unusual cave with stalactites and stalagmites and a subterranean lake. If you visit around midday, you will enjoy an otherworldly spectacle created by the sunlight as it shines through the cave walls and turns the lake water into a psychedelic swirl of colour. Tel.: +30 26740 22997

Monasteries: The church and monastery of Agios Gerasimos, the island's patron saint, attract worshippers from all over Greece who come to pay their respects to the practically indestructible relics of the saint. Nearby, you can visit the cave where the saint would withdraw to pray. Atros Monastery, near Poros, is the oldest monastery in Kefalonia with a history dating back to Byzantine times, while Kypouria Monastery, 15 km from Lixouri, is built on an impressively steep rock 90 m high, with a magnificent view of the sea.

Agios Georgios Castle: This 13^th century Venetian castle overlooks the village of Peratata. Built to safeguard the old city of Kefalonia, over time it passed through Venetian, Turkish and Frankish possession. It occupies an area of 16,000 m² and its walls are 600 m long. Perched at an altitude of 300 m, it offers a view that will take your breath away.

Escape to nature: A true nature lover's paradise, Kefalonia offers unforgettable treks along paths through traditional settlements and rare geological phenomena (Katavothres, Karavomylos, Drogarati, Kounopetra). Aenos National Park, with its numerous marked trails and magical routes, is worshipped by trekkers and mountain climbers. Among other things, it features a protected endemic species of fir, as well as other rare types of flora and fauna.

Beaches: All along the island's coastline, you will find beaches you could only dream about, some of which are among the most beautiful in the Mediterranean. These include the widely photographed Myrtos, one of the 10 most beautiful beaches in the world, with turquoise waters and golden sand. In competition, near the sheltered harbour of Sami, is Antisamos, where the green stretches to the water. The list of other beaches is endless: Makrys and Platys Gialos, the red Xi beach for a natural spa on its clay surface, and Petanoi for those who appreciate untamed beauty. Also: Skala, Avythos, Agios Thomas, Foki and Ai Chelis. More difficult to reach but well worth the effort is Platia Ammos, as well as Giagana, where scenes from the film "Captain Corelli's Mandolin" were shot. It is also worth trying out Koroni beach, which is a refuge for sea turtles.

Before leaving the island, make sure to pack some of the flavours and fragrances of Kefalonia in your luggage by buying some local thyme honey, award-winning Robola wine, grape must biscuits, anise biscuits, rosolia pomegranate liqueur, mandarin drink and an orgeat syrup called soumada. Don't say no to sweet pleasures like the local quince paste, famous almond mantoles and mantolata nougat. You will find local products, souvenirs and folk art items along the commercial road in Argostoli called Lithostroto, along the waterfront and down the side streets in Fiskardo, with a smaller variety available in Sami, Poros and Agia Efimia. Look for handmade embroideries with thread made from the agave plant.

The cuisine of Kefalonia is based on the Mediterranean diet with an emphasis on meat, fish, fruit and vegetables, though there are numerous local specialties such as famous Kefalonia pies, aliada garlic dip (with octopus juice and mashed potatoes), riganada rusks with oregano and olive oil, and bourbourelia (pea soup with spices and olive oil). At the restaurants and ouzeries in Fiskardo, you can enjoy unique dishes in a cosmopolitan atmosphere. Prices are a little high, but the quality of the food and service will not disappoint. For night-time entertainment, the best options for bars and clubs are in Argostoli and Fiskardo. There are alternatives for island nightlife, though, with the famous island festivals and the wild parties held at the popular beach bars that last till dawn.

• Events: Kefalonia enjoys a rich cultural life throughout the year. Important dates for the island include the observance of Unification of the Ionian Islands with Greece on 21 May. The International Choral Festival, held in Argostoli every summer, is also popular. If you happen to be in Kefalonia in summer, don't miss the custom of the candles on 24 June in honour of Agios Giannis Lampadaris. The lighting of bonfires is also an impressive sight.
• Saint's day feasts: The major feast for Agios Gerasimos is held on 16 August. On 15 August, the day of the feast of the church of the Virgin Mary attracts huge crowds of people to see the harmless young catsnakes, known as "the holy snakes of the Virgin", make their appearance around the church. Finally, Kefalonians celebrate Carnival with particular flamboyance in Argostoli, Lixouri, Skala, Poros and elsewhere.

Transport from the airport

Aegean Airlines lands at Kefalonia National Airport. Small but serviceable, the airport has shops, a café, ATMs, car rental agencies and free Wi-Fi. The airport is 7 km from Argostoli. You can take a bus or taxi to get to town. Taxis have set rates depending on the destination and they are posted on the car window. In all events, it is advisable to ask about the fare beforehand.