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Konak Square: the heart of the city, with Izmir's landmark Clock Tower. This 25-metre architectural jewel, which looks as if it has been decorated with fine lace, was built in 1901 for the 25th anniversary of Sultan Abdul Hamid II's ascension to the throne. Next to it, you can see the small 18th century Yalı Mosque.

Hisar Mosque: the largest and oldest mosque in the city, dating back to 1592. Admire its robust construction, the courtyard with the ritual fountain and seven domes, as well as the exquisite interior decoration featuring the most representative examples of Ottoman art. 
Address: Konak Mh., 35250 Konak/İzmir

Kadifekale Castle: walk up to Izmir's "velvet castle", built at the top of Pagos Hill by military leader Lysimachus, during the time of Alexander the Great. According to tradition, its construction was a gift from the Macedonian commander to the local residents in recognition of their support during the war against the Persians. The walls seen now are medieval and not ancient. The view of the city of Izmir and the Aegean Sea from there is compelling.

Karşıyaka-Cordelio: There is a marina near the old customs house from where the boats sail to the coastal districts of Izmir; one of these is Cordelio, nowadays known as Karşıyaka. Few of the old structures remain, but you can enjoy a cup of coffee with a marvellous view of the city.

Kültürpark: a vast expanse of green in the north section of the city which marks the position of the old Greek district ravaged by fire in 1922. Izmir residents come here to jog through the lovely gardens, or to enjoy the Ferris wheel, partake of other outdoor activities and admire the sculptures on show.

Izmir Archaeological Museum: this three-storey building in Bahribaba Park in Konak houses treasures brought to light by archaeological excavations in ancient Smyrna, Ephesus, Pergamon, Miletus and Clazomenae. The museum features a rich collection of pottery from the Neolithic through the Byzantine periods, including the unique black-figure Attic wedding vessels (lebes) made by the artist Sophilos which depicts the wedding of Menelaus and Helen of Troy. 
Address: Bahribaba Park in Konak a Halit Rıfat Paşa Caddesi 4, oo90232 489 07 96

Roman Forum: visit the Forum that Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius built in Izmir in 178 AD atop the ruins of the Hellenistic Agora, which had existed from the time of Alexander the Great and was destroyed by an earthquake in 178 AD. The arched walkway with the well-preserved remaining cloisters is impressive.
Address: Namazgah

Atatürk Museum: The neoclassical mansion where the founder of the Turkish Republic stayed when visiting Izmir in 1930-34. Invaluable carpets from Isparta and Uşak in Asia Minor, marble statues, fireplaces, personal items belonging to Kemal Atatürk and a large portrait of the leader can be viewed in this residence-museum in the chic district of Alsancak, part of the old Greek quarter.  
Address: Avenue Atatürk 24, οο9232421 70 26

Çeşme: half an hour from Izmir, the coastal town of Çeşme, opposite the Greek island of Chios, is a popular destination on the Turkish Riviera. Its name, Çeşme, means "fountain" and is derived from the numerous springs that were located there in the 18th and 19th centuries. A Genoese fortress later expanded by the Ottomans presides over the small harbour populated by yachts and hotels.
Alaçatı: take a short trip to Alaçatı, 85 km from Izmir. You can swim at the nearby beach and enjoy a meal at one of the restaurants housed in old windmills.

Ephesus: travel 107 km to the south, towards Kuşadası. The best-preserved ancient Ionian city of Ephesus is located about 10 km from the seaside resort, opposite the Greek island of Samos. It flourished under Roman rule, doing a brisk trade with markets in Rome, Lebanon and Alexandria. Visit the Ephesus theatre, with a capacity of 24,000 people, and the Library of Celsus, where thousands of scrolls were once stored.

Wander round Kemeraltı, the historic market in the centre of Izmir dating back to the 16th century. Along its bustling alleyways, some covered and others open-air, the local merchants display their colourful wares: spices, copper utensils, hookahs, amulets, scarves, musical instruments, silver, jewellery, kilims and leather goods - a pot-pourri of items in the souk stalls.

Walk up to the city's castle to visit the outdoor market of woven goods set up there. Look for antiques at the junk shops in Kızlarağası Han Bazaar, once a stop on the Silk Road, and look for souvenirs in the little shops around the main square of Konak.

The stylish district of Alsancak is where most of Izmir's fashion boutiques are located, featuring the creations of up-and-coming Turkish designers in modern European lines. You will also find chic shops in Karşiyaka, along Cumhuriyet Avenue and in the emerging neighbourhood of Pasaport.

Izmir's cuisine is a mixture of Anatolian flavours and old Greek and Levantine Asia Minor recipes. Have a cup of Turkish coffee or apple-flavoured tea in Kızlarağası Han, at the hangouts round Konak Square. 

Try some fish prepared in a crust of salt, stuffed mussels and other Aegean seafood dishes at the restaurants along the waterfront Atatürk Avenue. Along the back streets of Kemeraltı market, you can sample Izmir meatballs, burek, giaourtlou kebab and Iskender kebab. You must try some street food, including gevrek circular bread sold by street vendors with red trolleys, and the infamous "silken" dried figs and local raisins. 

In the old Jewish quarter, take the elevator in one of the city's landmark buildings. Asansör was built in 1907 to connect the lower and upper quarters of Karataş. The elevator inside the towering building will take you to the luxury restaurant at the top where you can enjoy a meal and a magnificent view of the entire gulf. 

Izmir's night life is centred around the bars along waterfront Kordonboyu, hookah cafés, clubs located on the Pasaport pier, and the haunts in Karşiyaka, where you can enjoy a night out with pop and rock music, as well as Middle Eastern amanedhes.

Izmir's events combine tradition with new trends in this cosmopolitan corner of Asia Minor.

• Izmir International Festival One of the most important cultural events in the country, held in July. International artists from the fields of classical and traditional music, opera, ballet and theatre arrive each July to perform in the atmospheric venues in Izmir and surrounding areas, including the Ephesus theatre and the Celsus Library. 
• Izmir International Fair A historic event for this city and the most important of its kind in Turkey. In late August and beginning of September, representatives of agricultural production, manufacturing, industry, and merchants from all over the country and from abroad come to Kültürpark to present the latest market trends, while cultural festivals are also held in conjunction with the trade show. 
• National Sovereignty and Children's Day The Izmir National Opera presents performances especially for children on the 23 April holiday.
• Ottoman Carpet Exhibition The most beautiful handmade carpets and kilims created by traditional carpet workshops in Asia Minor, such as those of Uşak and their complex knots woven into the work, are presented at the Arkas Art Centre in June.

Getting to and from the airport in Izmir

Aegean Airlines lands at Adnan Menderes International Airport, located 16 km south of Izmir. This large, modern airport features retail stores, restaurants and cafés, as well as banks, foreign exchange desks, a post office, car rental agencies and free Wi-Fi in the departure areas.

To get to Izmir from the airport, you can take the Havaş airport shuttles to the city centre, or the South Line of the IZBAN suburban railway to Alsancak Station. If you choose to go by taxi, you would be well advised to ask about the fare ahead of time, though most taxis have a meter.