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The Castle: The mediaeval castle of Ioannina is a complete fortified town, one of the few surviving in Greece. In its current form it dates from the years of Turkish occupation, but incorporates earlier Byzantine building phases. There are two citadels within the walls. One is located on the north-eastern side, formerly the site of the Byzantine palace and the Church of John the Baptist, now the location of the Mosque of Aslan Pasha (1618). This is one of the best examples of Islamic religious architecture in Greece, with impressive painted and sculptural decoration. The second citadel, the Its Kale (internal fort) lies to the south-east. Where in the 19th century Ali Pasha had his seraglio you will now find the Byzantine Museum, and next to it the Tomb of Ali Pasha and the Fetihie Mosque (1795).

Ioannina Archaeological Museum: In the Litharitsia Park, near the main square of the city, is a building designed in the 1960’s by the eminent architect Aris Konstantinidis, home to the Archaeological Museum. Its collection includes finds not just from the city of Ioannina, but from all over the Epirus region, the most important of which come from the archaeological site at Dodone and the Necromanteion of Acheron. Address: 6, 25 Martiou Square, tel.: +30 26510 01050, www.amio.gr

Kostas Frontzos Museum of Folklore: The museum was opened in 1987 by the Society for Epirot Studies and the Foundation for Ionian and Adriatic Studies, its purpose being to rescue, collect and utilize documentation of Epirot folk culture. A new wing was added in 2000 to the original 19th century town house, with new exhibits including traditional costumes, fabrics and embroidery, wood carvings, tools used in livestock farming, ceramics, gold items, etc. Address: 42 Mihail Angelou St., T.: +30 26510 25233, www.hellas.teipir.gr/Thesis/Ioannina/MOYSEIO/index.htm

Perama Cave: This, one of the best-preserved caves in the world, was first discovered in 1940, by local people from Perama, 4km outside Ioannina. In 1956 exploration work began and a huge hollow space was discovered, 1,500m in length, with a unique wealth of stalactites and stalagmites, as well as the fossilized bones and teeth of a rare kind of bear – the cave bear. We now know that the cave was formed 1,500,000 years ago by erosion of the limestone rocks by the waters of an underground river passing through the hill. Tel.: 26510 81521, 81650 Pamvotida Island: A narrow strip of land at the edge of the lake was once the crowded site of a community of some 100 stone dwellings and Byzantine monasteries (St. Nicholas, St. Panteleimon). It was also the final refuge of Ali Pasha, who met his end here. It is one of the very few inhabited lake islands to be found anywhere in the world, the scene of legendary events which have remained in living memory down to the present day – most dramatic among them the tale of the tragic Kyra Frosyni, drowned in the lake on the orders of Ali Pasha for allegedly immoral conduct. Boats leave for the island every ten minutes in summer, every half hour in winter.

Archaeological site of Dodoni: Just a short (22km) drive south-west from Ioannina will bring you to the feet of Mt. Tomaros and the archaeological site of Dodone, known as the ‘cradle of civilization’. In a setting of incredible natural beauty and tranquillity you can visit the ancient oracle and the ancient theatre of the same name, one of the largest in the ancient world, with seats for a stunning 17,000 spectators. The sanctuary, famed all over Greece, dates back to the Bronze Age (2600-1200 BC), but was radically renovated in the 3rd century BC under King Pyrrhus, at which time the Prytaneum, Parliament and the theatre itself were added.

A. Vrellis Waxworks Museum: An impressive building, emulating the characteristic Epirot town house, just outside Nizani, is home to 150 life-size waxworks, representing figures from modern history in three themed sections: before the War of Independence, War of Independence of 1821, and 2nd World War. Address: 120th km of Ioannina-Athens National Highway, Bizani, Ioannina, tel.: +30 26510 92128, www.vrellis.gr

Zagorohoria: While you’re in the area you absolutely must arrange an excursion to the famous stone villages of Zagori, with their traditional architecture and breath-taking natural setting. For a first tour, start in western Zagori with the Papingo villages, then continue through the mountains to central Zagori, stopping at Vitsa, Mondendri and Kipi, and then drive on to the villages of eastern Zagori, to Grevenitis and beautiful Vovousa.

Vikos Gorge: One of the most beautiful gorges in Europe, the Vikos Gorge is the narrowest in the world, according to the Guinness Book of Records, just 2 metres wide at some points. An excellent place to see it from above is the Aghia Paraskevi Monastery at Monodendri, perched high up on the rocks. From May to October you can walk through the gorge, but it’s best to go with a guide or in an organized group.

Ioannina is famed for its traditional folk art, the work of its goldsmiths and silversmiths, and its wood carvers. Hand-made jewellery from silver, gold, copper and bronze, as well as hand-carved wooden furniture, fabrics, copper pots and pans and other household items can be found in great abundance and diversity in the stores around the castle, in the main square on Pamvotida Island, and in many other neighbourhoods of the city. But you shouldn’t overlook the wonderful local produce of the region, like the local dairy products, the baked sweets (including famous versions of baklava), the wine from Metsovo, the honey, the traditional sweet known as ser burek, the tsipouro (like a strong ouzo) and herbs and aromatic plants of all kinds.

The city has a lively gastronomic tradition, with a variety of traditional and European foods. There are tavernas and grill houses both within and outside the city walls, specializing in lamb roasted in an earthenware dish and all sorts of meat grilled on charcoal or on a skewer. In the little restaurants along the breakwater there are crowds of local people and visitors from midday to late at night, enjoying appetisers with tsipouro, wine or ouzo. On the island in the lake the local specialties tend to feature fish: lake shrimps grilled on charcoal, eels and frog’s legs all promising a range of new tastes. They will be accompanied by some of the local wines produced and bottled here, like the Katoyi, the Metsovitiko, the Zitsas, and the wines from the Averof winery. When it comes to dessert you really should try the local baklava, the kadaifi and the many preserved fruits and baked sweets based on traditional recipes. These can be found in the various patisseries and confectioner’s dotted around the city, some of which are up to a hundred years old. All over Ioannina there are little bars and beautifully kept cafes. The busiest area for these is Dodonis Street, but there are also popular places in the Skala area by the lake. Very busy but still good is the nearby Garivaldi Street, while an interesting up-and-coming area is in the old Liabey shopping arcade. Pedestrians-only Kallari Street is a good place to saunter around and watch the world go by.

• Festivals: Ioannina is a university town, with a rich cultural life and all sorts of entertainment and leisure options. At whatever time of year you visit, you will find this lively city has some interesting artistic event to appeal to you, whether it is a concert or play or a photography festival or street theatre. If you’re in the city in summer there will be a whole range of concerts, art exhibitions, plays and other cultural offerings, within and outside the city walls, all part of the annual Ipeirotika Festival.
• Feasts and Saints’ Days: The best of the local festivals for colour and atmosphere are the Tzamales, on the last Sunday before Lent, with bonfires and dancing in the various neighbourhoods of the city, the celebration of the city’s Liberation (21 February), and the festival of Saint George the New Martyr (17 January), when the bier of the saint is processed around the city. Easter is also celebrated with great pomp and solemnity and on Good Friday the biers.

Transport to the airport

Aegean Airlines flights land at the international Vasileus Pyrros airport, just 4km east of Ioannina. The airport has duty free shops and a café, a bureau de change and a post office. There is also a car rental office. To get to and from the airport you can take local bus 2. If you prefer a taxi, they run on a meter.